August 5, Statsraad Lehmkuhl departed from Nuuk, Greenland, bound for one of the most remote and demanding sea routes in the world - the Northwest Passage. Sadly, ice conditions forced the ship to turn back just four days later. This is how the 111-year-old tall ship prepared for polar waters.
Ice conditions have put an end to Statsraad Lehmkuhl’s plans to sail through the Northwest Passage. The decision was made by the Canadian authority Transport Canada on August 9, when the ship was in Baffin Bay en route to Pond Inlet, the eastern gateway to the passage.
– There, ice conditions are good, but recent data show that the coming ice conditions could exceed what the ship is certified for. This is particularly the case in the western part of the Canadian Arctic, where the ice melting season has started later than expected, and there is significant uncertainty about developments in the coming weeks, the Statsraad Lehmkuhl Foundation writes in a press release.
The ship has turned around and set course south towards Bermuda. The plan is to sail into the Pacific and on to Vancouver via the Panama Canal instead of through the Northwest Passage, and then carry out the remainder of the One Ocean Expedition as planned.
Who decides?
If you are dedicated and bold enough, it is open for all to sail through the Northwest Passage - if you are using a small boat. A handful of smaller sailboats have done so every summer in recent years.
The limit is 300 gross tons, a measurement of a ship’s size based on its internal volume. One gross ton equals 100 cubic feet, or about 2.83 cubic metres. If your vessel is under 300 gross tons, you are exempt from many of the requirements set by international maritime regulations for crew, equipment, reporting, and certification.
Statsraad Lehmkuhl is 1,516 gross tons. Ships this size that enter polar waters must comply with the International Polar Code. Transport Canada monitors ice conditions closely and has the final say.

The international Polar Code
Sailing in the Arctic is very different from sailing in warmer oceans.
There are unique dangers, such as floating sea ice, freezing temperatures, extreme weather, and long distances from help if something goes wrong. Navigation is also more difficult because maps may be incomplete and communication systems may not work as well. The environment is fragile, and pollution or disturbance can have serious consequences.
To deal with these challenges. Statsraad Lehmkuhl has been outfitted to meet the necessary standards and holds a Polar Ship Certificate. A Polar Water Operational Manual has been written, detailing a wide range of technical adjustments and daily procedures.
The last week of July, the week that Statsraad Lehmkuhl entered arctic waters between Newfoundland and Greenland, we asked Operations Manager Sigvard Madsen to explain what it takes to get a century-old sailing vessel safely through the Northwest Passage.
– Statsraad Lehmkuhl usually doesn’t sail in sub-zero conditions, Sigvard says, so this leg demands a completely different approach, both technically and operationally.

Approved for "Open Waters"
The Polar Ship Certificate confirms that it meets the safety requirements for sailing in polar regions. But the certification is just the start.
– The certificate is based on a detailed risk assessment of both the ship and the polar waters we plan to sail in, Sigvard explains. You have to define your mission. We’re not going in as an icebreaker, but as a traditionally rigged sailing ship.
That sets limits.
– Statsraad Lehmkuhl is approved for what’s known as “Open Waters,” which means she can only operate in areas where sea ice covers less than ten percent of the surface. Even then, it’s not straightforward, Sigvard adds. You must use a specific formula to assess conditions. It’s not easy for those doing the evaluations.

Down below
The vessel itself has undergone a range of upgrades, some visible, many not. One is the addition of a heat-recovery system for the main seawater intake, known as the “sea box.”
A sea box is an intake where we draw seawater into the ship. You don’t want air bubbles in the pipes, so it’s essentially a box built into the hull that fills with water. The heat-recovery system prevents it from freezing .
– In icy waters, the sea boxes can be blocked by slush or ice. To prevent that, we have also modified the forward box so that air can be pumped through to blow ice out if needed, Sigvard says.
The hull, however, has not been reinforced for handling ice.
– There’s no added ice strengthening. We did some necessary steelwork, but nothing extra. The plan is avoiding ice rather than battling it, and wait for the sea to open up if needed, Sigvard says.
The upper decks
On the upper decks changes are easier to spot. Areas that normally aren't heated have been analyzed and now can be warmed if necessary. The radar is essential for spotting sea ice, and has been fitted with heating elements to prevent freezing.
Equipment that could be damaged by ice, like life rafts, air intakes, and the MOB (man overboard) boat, will be wrapped in specially made protective canvas when needed.
Other safety upgrades include moving the aft fire station indoors, updating fire plans, and setting up systems for emergency de-icing. Navigation has also been adapted.
– We’ve made it possible to steer the ship from the two platforms on the side of the hull, so that you can have better visibility when navigating around ice, Sigvard says. Before, steering was only possible from the center of the ship.
The rig
The rig itself poses one of the greatest challenges.
The ship has been evaluated for stability under heavy ice loads, up to 43 tons of ice on the rig can be handled. But in the event of ice forming on the rig, special clubs and procedures are in place for de-icing.
Handling sails and climbing masts in freezing weather is very different from doing so in the tropics. It’s not allowed to climb the rigging with gloves on, which is tricky in Arctic temperatures. Sigvard suspects that the sails will remain furled for much of the passage.
– That’s not really my decision, but I doubt there will be much actual sailing.
At least five days
Preparing for the worst is essential in the Arctic. Rescue services are sparse, and help could take days. The Polar Ship Certificate states that the ship must be prepared to handle emergencies on its own for at least five days.
Both Personal Survival Kits and Group Survival Kits are prepared, which include sleeping bags, tents, food, and essentials to survive together in the cold.
– We calculated the needs based on our expected sailing time and came out to 6.2 days. That’s now onboard, with a full plan to support it, Sigvard says.

The crew
The crew is another essential part of the preparation. While official certification did not require polar training under the “Open Water” classification, the team chose to go above and beyond.
– We’ve put all the crew through both basic and advanced polar operations courses, Sigvard says.
Two of the ship’s navigators already have experience in polar waters, and the team has hired Stéphan Guy, one of the most seasoned ice pilots in the region, to be onboard through the passage.

– His role is to advise us. He’s not there by order of the authorities, it’s something we’ve done to strengthen our team, Sigvard explains.
Even the ship’s watch system will stay familiar, with the standard four-hours-on, four-hours-off rotation likely continuing through the passage.
– The watch system has been discussed, but I think the decision is to stick to the normal white, red and blue-watch routine, Sigvard says.
And while the Arctic may seem like a place for seal meat or whale steak, Sigvard assured us the food is being delivered by their usual supplier, no exotic surprises while on board - so be sure to taste the local food before departure from Nuuk.

– Safety always comes first
Sigvard himself planned to join the voyage from Cambridge Bay to Whittier.
– I’ll be there as support, he says. If something happens to the ship up there, you can’t just tow her home like you would from Shetland. We’ve done everything we can, and I think we have control - but you never really know. That worry will stay with me until we’re through.
While the crew hoped for fair weather and open waters, they were prepared for ice and rough weather. Time has been added to the schedule so that the ship can wait for the conditions to improve if necessary.
Despite extensive preparations, Sigvard was clear that nature still has the final say.
– We’ve never been better prepared for a voyage, but in the end, it’s nature that decides. If the ice conditions become more demanding than what we’re certified for, we’ll have to turn back. Safety always comes first.
And this time, nature gave the thumbs down.
